Don't Cry for Me, Malbec
Copyright 2005 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved. Originally printed July 20, 2005. For more information go to wineloverspage.com
We've talked about Argentina's Malbec before. It's one of my "go-to" grapes when I'm in the mood for a pleasant, affordable, food-friendly table red that won't cost an arm or a leg...and it goes great with pizza!
You probably recall the standard "sound bite," about Malbec, too, how the Argentines borrowed the grape from Bordeaux, where it's a bit player in the Bordeaux blend (and the lead player in neighboring Cahors).
But as I was sipping a modest Mendoza Malbec the other night, and admiring its bright label image depicting a long-legged pampas cat, it occured to me that the Argentines have done more than merely borrowed Malbec. They has taken over the grape and made it Argentina's own, while France seems more inclined to forget the whole thing.
On my last visit to Bordeaux, I curiously tried to chat up some wine makers about Malbec, hoping they'd show me their vines and explain how the grape contributed to the blend. As it turned out, most of them looked the other way and pretended that they couldn't understand my French. Apparently Malbec simply isn't done any more. As for Cahors, how much space is devoted to this offbeat region on your local retailer's shelf?
But that's France's loss. Argentine Malbec is everywhere, and most of it is attractively affordable. We have a great local Argentine restaurant (Palermo Viejo, in Louisville), with an all-Argentine wine list that offers lots of goodies for $20 or less...at standard mark-ups.
Excellent table wine with the balance and structure of more expensive stuff, mostly from the single digits to the middle teens? There's a lot to like in that, and praise be to Argentina for making it happen. Today's featured wine, Budini, which celebrates a rare wild cat of the pampas in its name and label is a fine example at an affordable price, with plenty of ripe cherry-berry varietal character nicely filled out with lip-smacking acidity to make it a fine food companion.